Dermatologists Explain Why Using Calamine Lotion as a Makeup Primer Is a Bad Idea

Using Calamine Lotion as a Makeup Primer Is a Bad Idea

The popularity of calamine lotion is rising.

Yes, those happy childhood memories involve that little pink lotion that was once applied to your chickenpox, mosquito bites, or damaged skin after spending too much time in the sun.

It is currently popular as the best SPF cream, acne scar therapy, and pre-makeup primer all in one. Fans of the hack, like @therealembree on TikTok, apply a thin layer to their faces (either with their bare hands or a brush), let it dry, and then apply foundation for a matte, flawless finish that lasts all day. The custom has been around for a while, but makeup artist @tiasamudda is credited with popularizing it because she frequently posts photos of herself applying calamine lotion on her face before applying makeup. One video from July 18 with more than 1.4 million views states, "My face, my choice."

Others have done the same. After a long day of work, @brittanybowmann1 highlights her still-fresh foundation with the comment, "10/10 would suggest." Initially skeptical, @official lady venom responds, "This is gold right here." More than 20 million people have seen the hashtag #calominelotion so far.

It seems like a bargain to pay $5 a bottle at your neighborhood drugstore for a porcelain-like finish. But it's causing some confusion among medical professionals. Dermatologist @drwhitneybowe warns on TikTok that "this is not a long-term daily treatment."

We consulted two professionals to get their opinions on the TikTok craze as well as their recommendations for makeup-priming alternatives.

What You Should Know About Calamine's TikTok Claims

According to Nolle Sherber, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Washington, DC, calamine lotion is a topical treatment to dry out sensitive skin lesions like bug bites, shingles, or poison ivy.

Some people use it beneath makeup because of its primary components' ability to absorb oil: calamine, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and phenol, she explains.

Calamine lotion is classified by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as a skin protectant, and it has not yet been authorized for any additional uses. The National Library of Medicine advises using it just for seven days at a time; if your skin condition persists after that time, you should see a doctor.

Applying calamine as a makeup primer

Dr. Sherber cautions against utilizing products contrary to their intended use, such as using calamine as a makeup primer. Calamine lotion and other astringents should not be used excessively, she warns. Extremely oily skin types may not experience bothersome dryness, but people with less oily skin types risk damaging their skin's protective barrier by using this technique.

According to a 2018 study published in the Indian Journal of Medical Research, when your skin barrier is healthy, it helps shield your body from irritants, pollutants, and allergens. Dryness, eczema, acne, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin diseases may become worse if the skin's protective barrier is compromised, according to the expert.

According to Sherber, traditional calamine lotion is also very fragrant (unless you choose the unscented variety), so you might want to avoid it if your skin is sensitive to fragrances.

Calamine as an Acne Scar Treatment

As reported on TikTok, we'd love to believe that the tried-and-true pink stuff helps treat acne scars, but experts say that is another no-go. Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California, says that other from phenol, she does not see any other chemical in calamine lotion that would aid in the repair of acne scarring. This theory is supported by research, such as a study that found that the chemical peeling agent phenol is helpful at reducing scarring that was published in Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology in 2022.

Nevertheless, Dr. Palm does not advise taking phenol on a daily basis. "Usage of this over an extended period of time on people with sensitive or dry skin is not advised. Phenol should not be used for extended periods of time and is not recommended for usage when nursing or pregnant, according to the expert.

Palm advises using caution when using calamine lotion if you already have a skin issue. Phenol is a powerful peeling agent, she says. "It might make psoriasis, rosacea, and other skin diseases worse."

Calamine as a Product with SPF

Furthermore, according to study, calamine lotion contains zinc oxide, an active element in the majority of sunscreens, which is the source of the TikTok rumor that it can provide SPF protection. Calamine contains zinc oxide, which Palm claims "may offer some UV protection, albeit it hasn't been evaluated for a specific SPF." Even though testing hasn't been done yet, iron oxides "may assist guard against high-energy visible light damage."

Skin-Care Products to Use Instead of Calamine, According to Experts

There is no doubting the affordability of calamine lotion. But according to Sherber, there are several primers that have been particularly tested to minimize oily skin if you have some pricing flexibility. Start by looking for ones that have dimethicone. According to her, "this is frequently used as a blurring and smoothing agent that helps reduce oily breakout shine."

For matte skin, use OTC primers and prescription antiandrogens.

Palm suggests the primer for oily skin OC Eight Mattifying Gel. To assist regulate sebum production, a dermatologist may also prescribe a topical or oral antiandrogen such clascoterone or spironolactone (oil). Washes with sulfur also aid in reducing oil, according to her.

Retinoids to Aid in Acne Scar Removal

Let's talk about acne scars now that we've addressed primer. The first over-the-counter retonoid therapy, Differin Gel, is suggested by both Sherber and Palm. Retinoids, which are made from vitamin A, have been shown to have a number of positive effects, including the ability to clear clogged pores and promote the formation of collagen.

According to Palm, research has demonstrated that retinoids can successfully remove acne blemish stains and acne scars. According to a 2019 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, look for treatments with 0.3 percent of adapalene and 2.5 percent of benzoyl peroxide since these are thought to be the most efficient at eliminating acne scars.

Consult your dermatologist if you require additional assistance. According to Palm, there are numerous alternatives available in-office for treating acne scars, including peels, energy-based devices, microneedling, lasers and lights, and even fillers.

Consider Epiduo Forte if you want a product that can both lessen scarring and oiliness, advises Sherber. The gold standard for fading acne scars is topical retinoids. Epiduo, a prescription gel that combines benzoyl peroxide and adapalene and is known to lessen skin oiliness, has strong clinical data for fading scars. The findings of a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology in 2018 found that Epiduo was effective at reducing acne scars within six months of use.

Sunblock with SPF protection

Finally, Sherber advises finding a different product than calamine lotion to protect your skin from damaging UVB and UVA rays. However, she cautions, "This product has not been evaluated for SPF rating and shouldn't be relied on for this." She has read comments suggesting that zinc oxide will provide UV protection.

Sherber advises purchasing Supergoop. Mineral Mattescreen SPF 40 is a zinc oxide-containing product that has passed SPF testing and also functions as a mattifying primer. Voilà! According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, broad spectrum SPFs of 30 or greater shield against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun, delaying the onset of premature aging, wrinkles, and skin cancer.

The Verdict on Calamine Use for Skin Issues

You can see why TikTokers adore calamine lotion, the go-to remedy for skin conditions including insect bites, burned skin, and chickenpox, once you start watching the videos.

Although individuals with oily skin types may experience some benefits, the skin barrier can still be harmed. It is not suggested for people with sensitive, dry, or rosacea-related chronic skin problems such eczema, psoriasis, or dermatitis.

A dermatologist can assist you in finding something oil-drying, scar-healing, and oh-so-SPF-protective that can support your long-term skin care efforts if your budget allows for it. I apologize, but it seems like the medicine cabinet would be a better place for calamine lotion right now.

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